At his recent STEELPORT demo, Portland butcher Zeph Shepard of Proletariat Butchery walked us through the art of making guanciale, showcasing his deep knowledge of whole-animal butchery and traditional preservation methods. To highlight this rich, flavorful cut, Zeph shared one of his favorite ways to enjoy it: Pasta alla Gricia. Often called the “original carbonara,” this simple Roman classic brings together guanciale, Pecorino Romano, black pepper, and pasta for a dish that’s as comforting as it is timeless.
PASTA ALLA GRICIA
INGREDIENTS:
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1 lb (450 g) rigatoni, spaghetti, or mezze maniche
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8 oz (225 g) guanciale, cut into 1/2-inch strips or cubes
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1 cup (120 g) Pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated
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Freshly ground black pepper
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Salt for pasta water
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1 tbsp olive oil (optional)
DIRECTIONS
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Boil water. Salt the water, but be mindful, as both the guanciale and Pecorino Romano are quite salty. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions, until al dente.
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Render the guanciale: While the pasta cooks, heat a large skillet over medium-low heat and add the guanciale. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the guanciale is golden and crispy, about 10–12 minutes.
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Prepare the sauce base: Use a slotted spoon to remove the crispy guanciale pieces from the pan and set them aside. Leave the rendered fat in the skillet. Add a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper to the hot fat and let it bloom for about a minute.
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Emulsify the sauce. Before the pasta is finished cooking, reserve about 1 cup of the starchy pasta water. Drain the pasta and immediately transfer it to the skillet with the peppered guanciale fat.
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Create the creamy sauce. Remove the skillet from the heat. Add half of the reserved Pecorino Romano cheese and a few tablespoons of the starchy pasta water. Toss vigorously with tongs to create a creamy, emulsified sauce.
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Stir in the reserved crispy guanciale and the remaining Pecorino Romano, along with more pasta water as needed to reach your desired consistency.
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Serve immediately. Plate the pasta immediately and top with an extra sprinkle of black pepper and cheese. The heat from the pasta will continue to melt the cheese and keep the sauce from clumping.